Culinary Khancepts, the budding hospitality group that operates State Fare, Liberty Kitchen, Leo’s River Oaks, and others, has added another feather in its cap with the opening of a modern Mexican restaurant and agave bar called Mayahuel in Autry Park. The ambitious project was created in partnership with chef Luis Robledo Richards, the founder of the beloved Tout Chocolat atelier, which has four locations in his native Mexico City. As a veteran of various Michelin-star kitchens like Le Pré Catelan and (now shuttered) Le Cirque in New York City, Richads brings major star power to Mayahuel, where he takes a creative, and soulful approach to Mexican fare.
“People are used to understanding Mexican cuisine through the Tex-Mex options available in Houston,” Richards says. “This is a lot different.”
Leaning into central Mexico-style cuisine, Richards says guests will see queso fresco, in lieu of melted cheese or queso; and the use of a lot of spices and fresh herbs, like avocado leaves and dry Mexican oregano, that are not commonly seen in Tex-Mex dishes. “What I wanted to create with this restaurant is Mexico City-style cuisine,” Richards explains. “But, it’s my interpretation of that.”
The restaurant’s moniker signifies the ancient Mexican goddess of the agave plant, and it is well represented with thoughtful decor throughout the expansive two-story dining room and outdoor spaces. With a modern aesthetic that includes natural stone and sculptural lighting, Mayahuel boasts a muted color palette and feels like an escape to one of Mexico City’s hip restaurants.
A highlight of the showstopping design is the kitchen, an area that blends seamlessly with the dining room, giving guests plenty to hold their attention as they dine. Richards says the layout is indicative of dining in his own home. “If I invite you to my house—I have a central kitchen—everyone ends up sitting around the kitchen bar.”
Of the various seating options across two floors are 16 bar seats, a private chef’s table for eight, 36 seats on the covered patio, and four kitchen-facing booths that offer some of the best views in the house, sans any obstructions. “Our main intention was to have a lot of transparency, zero barriers,” Richards says. “There is no back kitchen where you can’t see what we’re doing.”
At the heart of Mayahuel’s menu is a fresh masa program, with heirloom corn sourced from Mexico. Richards aims to keep produce and proteins as local as possible, and prides himself on using modern techniques in his cooking, like substituting fats to create solutions to make food that is lighter, but still flavorful. “Mexico City relies a lot on lard, which can be very heavy,” he shares. “We implement new technology to try and intensify flavors by distilling, infusing, and using the resources available to us.”
The menu is made up of three sections, including a series of starters, shareable plates, and traditional main courses. Small plates like aguachile and croquettes will be driven by bounty that is fresh and readily available, and may vary from visit to visit. For example, Gulf shrimp may be subbed in for red snapper in an aguachile, based on its what Richards is able to source. “My intention is to do variations of this section regularly.”
The second section honors masa, showcasing popular street foods like tacos and gorditas. “These are the usual suspects,” he says. “My interpretation of the Mexican food most people know.”
A non-traditional take on carne asada is a standout of the third section, which includes entrees and larger portions. Two cuts of meat, NY strip and beef cheek, are braised carnitas-style and served with onion puree, refried black beans, and chile confit. “It sounds childish, but you can play with your food,” he says. “Mix and match the sides, and each bite is different.” With the addition of freshly made tortillas, available with all main courses by request, guests can truly choose their own adventure.
Mayahuel’s bar program, which puts a spotlight on agave spirits, follows the same ethos of prioritizing quality ingredients by using fresh juices and house-made mixers. Mexican wines are also well represented. On any given day, guests can choose from approximately 220 to 250 labels, handpicked by Richards. “Most of the selections are very personal to me,” he explains. “I may have visited the state where it comes from, tried the wine with friends, or I know the producer.”
Working closely with importers, Richards hopes to introduce Houstonians to lesser known Mexican winemakers. He teases that Mayahuel will eventually host wine dinners spotlighting such wines.
Perhaps the most thrilling for those who are fans of Richards’ chocolate shop, will be Mayahuel’s dessert offerings. He shares that desserts will change every single day, with their focus kept simply on three ingredients: coffee, vanilla, and cacao.
With freshness and seasonality in mind, and an evolving menu, Mayahuel is sure to keep the interest of diners piqued. And while Richards has a clear vision to showcase the best of what is available to him in real time, he is keeping the wants of his guests in consideration. “Once you start serving your guests, your menu is no longer yours—it becomes theirs.”
Mayahuel is now open for dinner from 5 to 11 p.m., weekend brunch from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., and weekday happy hour from 3 to 6 p.m.
811 Buffalo Pk. Dr. Ste. 130, Houston, mayahuelrestaurant.com
